Seven days, one rope, one rack, eight people, five dogs, four canoes, and a heck of a good time! Part I

     Sometimes a trip just comes at the ideal time.  Just happens to fall into the timeline of life in such away that while you're not actually running away from something you're getting the hell out of town at a really ideal time.  Such was the case last week as Lil Nik and I packed up the truck to head to Moab for a multi sport adventure trip.  My good friend Nate had put together a 5 day 4 night canoe trip along the Green River.   Nikki and I had both picked up a few extra days off and were heading north for a few extra days.  With the ole Hoffman "Chili" Tripper (Old Town Canoe) lashed to the roof rack and a double set of cams packed in the back we loaded up the dogs and pointed the nose north up Highway 89.  As we crested the rise by Sunset Crater snow spattered the windshield.  Fitting I thought.  We barreled through the barren Navajo lands, buffeted by wind but the snow and rain subsided.  We stopped in Tuba City at the Tuvii Cafe and each got a Navajo Taco, maybe not the best decision! and hammered onward towards our first destination... Mexican Hat.

Nik topping out the Mexican Hat!

Looking back at Nik as I teach myself how to
aid climb

  Now as most of my climbing friends know I am not much of an aid climber and Nikki is even less of one...  so our summit bid may not have been the prettiest or smoothest.  I am sure that Bustin Dustin or Gordo would have fallen of the belay ledge laughing if they had seen my ascent of the bolt ladder!

Nik and I atop the Mexican Hat!

      After a brief celebration on the summit, only somewhat marred by the fact that the bottle of Beam was empty and in the place of the hand grenade only a geocache, we rapped back to out packs and boogied back to the truck.  We each cracked an almost cold one and once again tilted the rudder and set sail towards Moab.  It was just dusk when we reached the bivy spot for Castleton and the Valley had that feel of a place that while you haven't spent enough time there it still feels like home.  We got ourselves situated and tucked in for the night.  The first light of morning showed low clouds and mild temperatures and we found ourselves in no rush to hustle up to the Korr-Ingalls route on Castleton tower.  After coffee was made and instant oatmeal munched we packed up the bags and began the approach to the tower.  The clouds overhead were fairly ominous but we decided to push on.  We reached the low bench just below the tower proper and realized that we'd need to leave the dogs here at the base.  A light rain began to fall and we still decided to "check out" the base of the route.  We stretched out the rope bag as a shelter for the hounds, tied Emma up, and made our way to the base of the route.  It rained a little harder and it may have been a bit cool!  Still the foolhardy duo we decided what the hell the rocks not that wet and the first pitch is basically all calcite, whats the worst that could happen!  I roped up and headed into the slickery white chimney and it turns out that calcite is even more slippery when its wet!  I reached the belay and soon Nik was on her way up, lamenting the glassy stone as "gross" and maybe "disgusting"!  As she climbed the weather shifted  just slightly and soon the rock around me began to dry and the sun fought its way out from behind the clouds.

Nik hamming it up before the second
pitch of Kor Ingalls

Nik all tangled up in herself

Nikki arrived at the belay a bit chilly but in good spirits and we decided to continue up at least one more pitch.  Whats the worst that could happen right?  Nik led the second pitch and was a true rock star as she navigated her way through the off width cracks and soon I was starting up the third pitch and we were actually dry and somewhat warm.  The third pitch was a blast, very reminiscent of ole Sedony OW/chimney climbing, but on better rock!  Nik also made short work of the third pitch but was a bit tuckered when she hit the belay.  I had to break it to her that theres no rest for the weary and soon she was fighting her way to the summit of the tower.  I think she learned a bit of a lesson about route finding as she somehow chose the more difficult of the two options to reach the summit.  She did great though and kept her composure even when she found herself all wrapped up like a pretzel!  We were on the summit in no time and took a moment to take in the view.  Spectacular, clouds ringed the valley yet we were mostly dry and in the sun.  It didn't take long before Nikki got to se a good old fashioned Dean Hoffman summit spaz out!  For some reason I just don't like being on the summit too long and get a bit anxious if we're not moving up or down!  I think I said something along the lines of "F-it I'm out of here, lets get down!"  I'm not sure why I'm such a freak on the summit, maybe its my fear of heights.  As we set up to rap down the North Face I noticed that Mariah was about a half mile down the trail fraternizing with some photographer.  The rap went smoothly and we were able to rescue a stuck rope from one of the anchors, the end had wrapped around itself in a bizarre way that made it impossible to pull from the ground, but Nikki barely had to touch it and it fell to the ground.  A good example of why its dangerous to try to ascend stuck ropes!  Almost exactly as Nik touched down snow started to fall!  What a day!  We made our way back to camp and settled in for an amazing sunset, with warm light bathing the towers Iz played on the radio, What a Wonderful World.  It was amazing.

Yeah party on the summit, pre freak out!

Nik slaving away to get packed for the canoe trip, at least 20 hrs pre departure!

We awoke to a cloudless sky and the sound of multiple parties hiking up to either Castleton or the Rectory.  Funny cause Nik and I had been the only ones up there the day before.  We had a casual morning about camp.  Or I should say I had a casual day around camp because Nik didn't seem to have processed that we had ALLLLLL day to pack for our coming canoe trip and had pretty much reorganized and packed everything before 8 a.m.!  We lounged about camp a bit, taking in the view and enjoying not having anywhere specific to be.  After some time we loaded the dogs up and headed to the Big Bend boulders for a quick session.  The rock was extremely greasy, in a much dfferent way than Castleton had been and we climbed for an hour or so before heading into town.  

       The rest of the crew was to arrive in town sometime in the evening and Nik and I headed to Ken's lake to secure an easy to find campsite, because knowing our friends they would be rolling in late and in the dark.  As luck would have it we ran into some folks from Phoenix, in town for a triathalon, who hooked us up with probably the last site in Moab!  Nikki hung out in camp and I fished my way up to the waterfall for a quick shower (no fish in the creek it turns out) then I headed down to the lake to see what I could find.  As it turns out after much frustration with getting my line tangled in the weeds on shore I landed 6 or so good size trout and a small mouth bass! 

Hard to get a good perspective, really nice size trout... just before I fell in the lake!
Then I fell in and soaked my phone and called it a day.  Around 8 or so, when Nate and Molly were supposed to arrive we got a message from them saying they were doing laundry in Bluff cause Gus the hound dog had vomited all over Nates sleeping bag!  Figures!  A little frustrated we motored into Moab and ate dinner at McStiffs.  Not the most amazing meal, but the dessert was incredible.  I can't remember what it was called but it was maple ice cream with carmel sauce, candied walnuts and the proverbial icing on the cake....  carmelized bacon, not bacon bits but nice crunchy scrumptious bacon!  We showed back up at camp just as Nate and Molly pulled in.  We caught up briefly then all retired for the evening.  It wasn't until around 2 or 3 a.m. that Greg, Mariah, John, and Jean all showed up.  Like I said our crew is never early.  As the sun began to trace the edges of the horizon we all began to slowly rouse from our sleeping bags and the excitement for our coming adventure began to rise.  But that will have to be the basis of my next post since my poor fingers are tired, almost worked to the bone!