I rolled into the Midgley Bridge parking lot at 0900 on the dot, just as A&A were piling out of their car. It was on track to be a beautiful day! I was so excited to get to share our sandstone playground that I was already pointing out the routes and formations on the horizon, the curiously named Pointed Dome, Queen Vics, Moose's Butte, the Tea Pot. Allen grinned and Anna clutched a roll of tp, the stomach bug was still with her. We did a 180 and I pointed out the Acropolis, the tip of Tisha Spire, and our destination the Super Crack tower. We fiddled around in the parking area getting our gear organized and packs packed while the dogs ran absolutely wild. Once everything was situated we began our approach, really one of the easiest in Sedona, as you are following a well worn trail or streambed for the majority of the hike. Having the opportunity to share one of my favorite areas with good friends allowed me to re-appreciate the beauty of the area, water trickled over the slick rock and occasionally sheets of ice could be seen in the creek bed. It was cool, but not cold and you could feel the promise of warmer temps in the air.
After about 30 mins of steady walking the Supercrack Tower came into view and I was able to point out our first route to Allen. Several months back Dustin and I completed work on a new route we called Inception, a beautiful line that takes one to the top of the lower summit of the Supercrack Tower. I had been able to free the crux pitch shortly after we put the line up but have been anxious to have some one else climb it and hear their opinion. Allen was psyched, he's been spending quite a bit of time in Indian Creek and the splitter finger crack of the crux pitch was calling his name! We made the final bushwhack up the gully and soon found ourselves at the base of the tower. While we racked up for the climb Anna, still feeling out of sorts made her way to a nice sunny vantage point from which she would be able to watch Allen send.
Allen and I made the initial slab traverse to the first anchors and got tied in. Allen looked like he had some butterflies in his stomach, first real route in a new area and going for the onsight second ascent! That would get me going as well! Well Allen grabbed the gear and launched up the initial 5.9 hands/big hands pillar that leads to the base of the money pitch. He made short work of the pitch and seemed to adjust to the soft Sedona sandstone very easily. I joined him shortly at the belay and we sat there for a few minutes trying to decide if we should wait for the sun to hit the pitch or if he should just go for it. It didn't take too long and impatience got the best of him. As Anna lounged in the sun with a literal dog pile about her Allen re-sorted the rack and gave it hell! He cruised the first half of the pitch, right through the awkward changing cracks section, fiddled in the hidden #2 placement and got to the base of the finger crack in no time. After a brief pause and some shuffling of hands and feet Allen moved into the overhanging fingers and hung on tight and plugged and chugged his way through the crux. He definitely was pumped when he finally pulled into the first pod and found himself at the first no hands rest, a funky knee thread/key hole lock. After hanging out for a few and getting the circulation back to his fingers he made the final bouldery face climbing moves up to the belay ledge. ONSIGHT! Pretty impressive. I made my way up to him, turns out the finger crack is still hard for me, and we sat on the ledge in the sun. Him psyched to have sent a great pitch and me psyched to be able to share this route with him. He eyeballed the third, un-freed aid, pitch curiously but we decided to descend and check on Anna and the dogs.
We rapped quickly to the ground and were met by Anna and the hounds, all of whom were excited to see us! We enjoyed a brief rest on the ground and then decided to climb the "Chossy Chimney" into thewindow and Allen would lead pitches 2 and 3 of the Windows Route. I started up the chimney and soon discovered why it was called the "Chossy Chimney". Soon I was covered with the fine dust of Sedona and looking at long run outs over marginal gear on crumbling rock. I arrived at the Window unscathed and belayed Allen up to me. The look on his face when he took in the Windows pitch was priceless. He had seen pictures of the route in the Alpinist but up close the pitch is even more wild! Always gung ho Allen grabbed the gear and after about 2 face moves began stemming like mad. Such a unique climbing experience. Allen again made short work of the pitch and was soon at the second belay calling to Anna through the small window/tunnel at the belay.
We paused for a brief moment and then Allen wrangled up the big cams we had hauled all the way up and set off onto the third pitch. The third pitch of the Windows Route feels, to me, like old school Sedona. Muddy OW for about 30 feet with a wild stopper move that almost sent Allen for the big whip. Good thing he didn't because the piece below him was on its way to falling out. Not only is the pitch OW but it also flares in the back, making a good placement difficult in a few sections. He persevered though and soon was on top of Super Crack Tower. I thrashed my way up and we savored the summit and the beautiful late January temps. We didn't get a summit shot but we did get a hanging belay foot shot at the second belay. Soon we were back in the Window and Allens last task was to lead "Walk the Plank" the technically easy traverse Mark G and I put up, that allows you to get back to your packs. Technically easy but before its lone bolt appeared more than one strong climber backed off. We were back at the packs, and dogs, and Anna within 20 mins. (Poor Anna, still felt rugged after a full day of lounging in the sun). We packed up our bags and were hiking out in no time, already talking about possible trips to Zion and other routes that A&A should do while they were in Sedona.
It was a great day in Sedona spent with an old friend and a new friend and climbing partner. For the first time roping up with Allen it was a fantastic outing. Hopefully next time we'll get more pitches in and have more amazing adventures. Unfortunately Anna was still sick this morning and she and Allen made the decision to head back to Durango. Hopefully they make it back soon because I look forward to getting out with them again soon.
After about 30 mins of steady walking the Supercrack Tower came into view and I was able to point out our first route to Allen. Several months back Dustin and I completed work on a new route we called Inception, a beautiful line that takes one to the top of the lower summit of the Supercrack Tower. I had been able to free the crux pitch shortly after we put the line up but have been anxious to have some one else climb it and hear their opinion. Allen was psyched, he's been spending quite a bit of time in Indian Creek and the splitter finger crack of the crux pitch was calling his name! We made the final bushwhack up the gully and soon found ourselves at the base of the tower. While we racked up for the climb Anna, still feeling out of sorts made her way to a nice sunny vantage point from which she would be able to watch Allen send.
Allen and I made the initial slab traverse to the first anchors and got tied in. Allen looked like he had some butterflies in his stomach, first real route in a new area and going for the onsight second ascent! That would get me going as well! Well Allen grabbed the gear and launched up the initial 5.9 hands/big hands pillar that leads to the base of the money pitch. He made short work of the pitch and seemed to adjust to the soft Sedona sandstone very easily. I joined him shortly at the belay and we sat there for a few minutes trying to decide if we should wait for the sun to hit the pitch or if he should just go for it. It didn't take too long and impatience got the best of him. As Anna lounged in the sun with a literal dog pile about her Allen re-sorted the rack and gave it hell! He cruised the first half of the pitch, right through the awkward changing cracks section, fiddled in the hidden #2 placement and got to the base of the finger crack in no time. After a brief pause and some shuffling of hands and feet Allen moved into the overhanging fingers and hung on tight and plugged and chugged his way through the crux. He definitely was pumped when he finally pulled into the first pod and found himself at the first no hands rest, a funky knee thread/key hole lock. After hanging out for a few and getting the circulation back to his fingers he made the final bouldery face climbing moves up to the belay ledge. ONSIGHT! Pretty impressive. I made my way up to him, turns out the finger crack is still hard for me, and we sat on the ledge in the sun. Him psyched to have sent a great pitch and me psyched to be able to share this route with him. He eyeballed the third, un-freed aid, pitch curiously but we decided to descend and check on Anna and the dogs.
We rapped quickly to the ground and were met by Anna and the hounds, all of whom were excited to see us! We enjoyed a brief rest on the ground and then decided to climb the "Chossy Chimney" into thewindow and Allen would lead pitches 2 and 3 of the Windows Route. I started up the chimney and soon discovered why it was called the "Chossy Chimney". Soon I was covered with the fine dust of Sedona and looking at long run outs over marginal gear on crumbling rock. I arrived at the Window unscathed and belayed Allen up to me. The look on his face when he took in the Windows pitch was priceless. He had seen pictures of the route in the Alpinist but up close the pitch is even more wild! Always gung ho Allen grabbed the gear and after about 2 face moves began stemming like mad. Such a unique climbing experience. Allen again made short work of the pitch and was soon at the second belay calling to Anna through the small window/tunnel at the belay.
We paused for a brief moment and then Allen wrangled up the big cams we had hauled all the way up and set off onto the third pitch. The third pitch of the Windows Route feels, to me, like old school Sedona. Muddy OW for about 30 feet with a wild stopper move that almost sent Allen for the big whip. Good thing he didn't because the piece below him was on its way to falling out. Not only is the pitch OW but it also flares in the back, making a good placement difficult in a few sections. He persevered though and soon was on top of Super Crack Tower. I thrashed my way up and we savored the summit and the beautiful late January temps. We didn't get a summit shot but we did get a hanging belay foot shot at the second belay. Soon we were back in the Window and Allens last task was to lead "Walk the Plank" the technically easy traverse Mark G and I put up, that allows you to get back to your packs. Technically easy but before its lone bolt appeared more than one strong climber backed off. We were back at the packs, and dogs, and Anna within 20 mins. (Poor Anna, still felt rugged after a full day of lounging in the sun). We packed up our bags and were hiking out in no time, already talking about possible trips to Zion and other routes that A&A should do while they were in Sedona.
It was a great day in Sedona spent with an old friend and a new friend and climbing partner. For the first time roping up with Allen it was a fantastic outing. Hopefully next time we'll get more pitches in and have more amazing adventures. Unfortunately Anna was still sick this morning and she and Allen made the decision to head back to Durango. Hopefully they make it back soon because I look forward to getting out with them again soon.
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